I had to take my remaining annual leave (five days) on a ‘use it or lose it’ basis, and as a result this short break was rather unplanned. Having worked solidly without any significant breaks since Christmas, I am sure you’ll agree that a bit of respite was in order. However, I really didn’t want to spend the week doing mundane things in the house, so I decided to take the opportunity to get out and explore London. After all, it’s just on my doorstep!
With my map to hand, and an umbrella over my head, I went
out to South Kensington, a place renowned in my mind for its warmth and
sunshine – evidently not today though! My destination was the Victoria &
Albert Museum, somewhere I’d never visited before. My first of this week’s
cultural experiences. The rest were:
Tuesday :St Paul’s
Cathedral revisited (am); Regent’s Park (pm)
Wednesday: Day offThursday: Tate Britain (am); Natural History Museum/Harrods (pm)
Friday: Natural History Museum (am); Lunchtime concert by RCM; National Portrait Gallery (pm)
But for now, back to the V&A. To make the most of my
time there, and to avoid the feeling of wandering around aimlessly, I found a
visitors’ tour guide booklet at the reception desk. It highlighted twenty
exhibits of particular interest, and gave structure to my visit, as I looked
around and hunted for various artefacts – feeling a little like Indiana Jones!
The photos, and more information, can be found online.
On Tuesday I returned to St Paul’s Cathedral, to pick up
from where I left off on my birthday (I had bought a ticket that lasts me for
the whole year, so I wanted to make proper use of it). Rather than just looking
around for myself , as I had done previously, I asked to go on a tour, and was
very kindly shown round the main parts of interest from the cathedral floor.
Unfortunately I had to explore the Crypt unaided – again; there were some very
personal-sounding plaques, and it was sobering to think that all the names
there once belonged to living people like me. I stayed for the Eucharist, and
was encouraged by sharing communion – though it was very ceremonial, and I
didn’t understand a lot of the gestures. Shortly after this I proceeded to
lunch… with the added bonus of an unexpected discount!
I spent the afternoon wandering around Tottenham Court Road,
the home of electrical shops, hoping to find a solution to the problem of why
my camera wasn’t charging. I discovered that the easiest solution was to buy a
new battery, which I promptly did. Then I wandered over to Regent’s Park, and
settled down on a bench to read my book. A relaxing, if slightly blustery,
afternoon. It had been my original
intention to visit some other attraction – I had a long list – but I soon
realised that it would have been impractical. One main dose of culture a day is
enough!
On Thursday I headed off to Tate Britain, and within fifteen minutes of arriving, found myself talking to the tour guide. I was asked to offer my opinion on whether I would prefer a chronological or themed tour. I suggested the latter, as it would mean I could get more depth on a subject, and compare similar paintings. If working primarily through time, styles may have a tendency to jump about. She understood my reasoning, and once more people joined us, we started the tour – focusing on landscape paintings, notably by Constable, Martin and Gainsborough. It was fascinating to hear about a subject of which I had little prior knowledge, like how certain scenes would be totally imagined, based on a table display of ‘perhaps a bit of broccoli here, and some tree bark there’. Or how Constable would use a pane of glass in order to sketch his image and transfer it to his paper. Or the historical context of paintings, which made certain styles of art unpopular. No sooner had I finished this tour, then I was picked up by another guide who was focusing on portraits of the same period. So I got two very enjoyable, very different tours. It was a lot to take in, so I soon went to the gift shop and found a book covering the era discussed – for private study at my leisure, I think.
On Thursday I headed off to Tate Britain, and within fifteen minutes of arriving, found myself talking to the tour guide. I was asked to offer my opinion on whether I would prefer a chronological or themed tour. I suggested the latter, as it would mean I could get more depth on a subject, and compare similar paintings. If working primarily through time, styles may have a tendency to jump about. She understood my reasoning, and once more people joined us, we started the tour – focusing on landscape paintings, notably by Constable, Martin and Gainsborough. It was fascinating to hear about a subject of which I had little prior knowledge, like how certain scenes would be totally imagined, based on a table display of ‘perhaps a bit of broccoli here, and some tree bark there’. Or how Constable would use a pane of glass in order to sketch his image and transfer it to his paper. Or the historical context of paintings, which made certain styles of art unpopular. No sooner had I finished this tour, then I was picked up by another guide who was focusing on portraits of the same period. So I got two very enjoyable, very different tours. It was a lot to take in, so I soon went to the gift shop and found a book covering the era discussed – for private study at my leisure, I think.
After lunch I didn’t have any plans, so I went back to the
familiar surroundings of South Kensington. I was originally going to find a
quiet spot to sit in the park, and read, but my plan broke down when I realised
how cold it was. It was unlikely I would get comfortable outside, and hard to
find somewhere quiet to sit and read inside, so after a long time wandering
around outside, wondering what to do, I resolved to enter the warm confines of
the Natural History Museum. I wasn’t really concentrating on the exhibits, to
be honest, and the dinosaur displays seemed a bit childish (or rather ‘child
friendly’). Also, I didn’t have the motivation to enjoy the displays, as unlike
the gallery, I hadn’t planned this visit. I was soon aware that time was drawing
on, so for a change of scene I left for Harrod’s, before getting the Tube home.
I was really amazed by how grand everything was in the famous store, and I
happily admired the displays of tea, and leafed through a book on James Bond,
before I realised there was nothing more I could do without paying. And it was
getting dark.
Friday morning saw me giving the Natural History Museum a
second chance. I wanted to stay in the area because of a lunchtime concert
being given by students from the Royal College of Music. As I waited outside, I hadn't anticipated there being such a long queue to get in... or there being quite so many schoolchildren! When I finally reached the entrance, I decided to head towards the Red Zone, housing what was originally the National Geological Museum (which merged with the Natural History Museum in 1985) - explaining why I couldn't find it listed in my street atlas. After almost being swept away numerous times by the tide of screaming children, I arrived at the Red Zone. There were many different things on show, although unfortunately the earthquake room was being renovated. I found it interesting to wander around again, and I was surprised by the number of adults present, considering the continued 'child-friendly' appearance to many of the activities. I enjoyed the visit, but I soon realised that time was progressing quickly and I would have to leave soon, if I was to make it to the church in South Kensington high street, for the lunchtime concert at 13:05. However, getting out of the museum isn't as easy as it seems...
Braving the cool breese I started the long walk to St Mary Abbot's church. I intended to get some lunch in Leicester Square - my eye was on a Chinese restaurant, like old times - but because the concert would leave lunch rather late, I decided to get a bite to eat from somewhere nearby. I arrived at the church early, and so I popped into Costa to get a tea and a bacon roll - which they promptly took from me. So much for being quick. Finally, once the roll was heated up (ah, it makes sense) I returned to the church, and tucked into my food - but thinking better of it, I wasn't sure about eating during the performance, so put what remained in my bag for later. Unfortunately there were no bins to hand, so I carefully put an open sachet of brown sauce into my pocket, reminding myself to move carefully so as not to make a mess.
The music was performed well, and very stirring. I enjoyed the Mozart (Sonata in B flat major K 454) and Brahms (Trio in B major op 8), but I found the Debussy (Etudes Book 2 L 136) and Rachmaninov (Etudes tableaux in A minor op 39 no 6) rather discordant and, in my opinion, less melodious - a different style of composing, most likely. There was clearly plenty of feeling conveyed in the playing of these two pieces though, if the force with which some of the keys were struck, is anything to go by. The only downside to the recital was the noise that people made as they entered and left (partway through performances, I should add) - I can only think it must be very offputting for the students. I stayed to the end, really appreciating the talent that went into the pieces. If only I still played the piano.
On my way to Leicester Sqaure I realised that keeping the sauce in my pocket wasn't such a good idea - my wallet and Oyster card were now very sticky and smelled of HP, and not a single serviette or tissue in sight! Licking my fingers, I sighed to myself and got on the tube. When I got back outside, I tried to make sure I didn't get lost - but to my surprise, eventually realised that all my wandering had led me in a big circle!
I found Chinatown, and a nice looking restaurant with a 'meal for one' for a reasonable price. I entered, and shortly after being shown to my table, was presented with a cart laden with a variety of different wicker baskets. One by one, the waiter enthusiastically removed the lids and listed what was on offer. I listened, partly intrigued, but mainly confused as I hadn't even ordered anything yet! To try and understand my predicament, I asked 'What is this?'. Soon I realised this was not the right question, as the waiter simply continued describing the items on the cart (I may be wrong, but I'm sure I heard 'chicken feet' in there somewhere). Finally, to my relief, I conveyed the fact that I simply wanted to see the menu - a routine procedure for a restaurant, so you'd think, although it probably didn't help that most things were in Chinese, and I am oriental in appearance. I ordered a soup and sweet and sour chicken, and was brought a complimentary pot of Chinese tea. I enjoyed both courses immensely, trying to demonstrate my prowess with chopsticks. However, I began to feel rather self-conscious, as the staff wandered up and down the aisle next to me - probably waiting for me to finish, or to give them an opportunity to top up my tea. As a result, I finished my meal with the spoon and fork.
By this point it was getting near to four o'clock, so I hastily left for the National Portrait Gallery. As it didn't close till nine, however, I reasoned that I would stay later, so I didn't need to rush. On arrival I bought myself a guide book, and started working my way through a self-guided tour. I found the Tudor period fascinating, and soon began looking simply for names of people I recognised. Once in a while I smiled to myself, as I discovered someone about whom I'd previously learnt something (from the V&A or Tate Britain). Soon however, I realised it was getting significantly darker outside, and maybe I could continue my experience another day, rather than overloading myself with information.
As I journeyed home, I thought back over the week. It had certainly been enjoyable, productive, and very different. Maybe there was something to be had from 'spontaneous planning' after all. Having been immersed in culture, I felt I'd grown from my experience. Who knows when I'll do something like this again, but in the meantime I've got a book to enjoy and photos to remind me.
Back to work.
Braving the cool breese I started the long walk to St Mary Abbot's church. I intended to get some lunch in Leicester Square - my eye was on a Chinese restaurant, like old times - but because the concert would leave lunch rather late, I decided to get a bite to eat from somewhere nearby. I arrived at the church early, and so I popped into Costa to get a tea and a bacon roll - which they promptly took from me. So much for being quick. Finally, once the roll was heated up (ah, it makes sense) I returned to the church, and tucked into my food - but thinking better of it, I wasn't sure about eating during the performance, so put what remained in my bag for later. Unfortunately there were no bins to hand, so I carefully put an open sachet of brown sauce into my pocket, reminding myself to move carefully so as not to make a mess.
The music was performed well, and very stirring. I enjoyed the Mozart (Sonata in B flat major K 454) and Brahms (Trio in B major op 8), but I found the Debussy (Etudes Book 2 L 136) and Rachmaninov (Etudes tableaux in A minor op 39 no 6) rather discordant and, in my opinion, less melodious - a different style of composing, most likely. There was clearly plenty of feeling conveyed in the playing of these two pieces though, if the force with which some of the keys were struck, is anything to go by. The only downside to the recital was the noise that people made as they entered and left (partway through performances, I should add) - I can only think it must be very offputting for the students. I stayed to the end, really appreciating the talent that went into the pieces. If only I still played the piano.
On my way to Leicester Sqaure I realised that keeping the sauce in my pocket wasn't such a good idea - my wallet and Oyster card were now very sticky and smelled of HP, and not a single serviette or tissue in sight! Licking my fingers, I sighed to myself and got on the tube. When I got back outside, I tried to make sure I didn't get lost - but to my surprise, eventually realised that all my wandering had led me in a big circle!
I found Chinatown, and a nice looking restaurant with a 'meal for one' for a reasonable price. I entered, and shortly after being shown to my table, was presented with a cart laden with a variety of different wicker baskets. One by one, the waiter enthusiastically removed the lids and listed what was on offer. I listened, partly intrigued, but mainly confused as I hadn't even ordered anything yet! To try and understand my predicament, I asked 'What is this?'. Soon I realised this was not the right question, as the waiter simply continued describing the items on the cart (I may be wrong, but I'm sure I heard 'chicken feet' in there somewhere). Finally, to my relief, I conveyed the fact that I simply wanted to see the menu - a routine procedure for a restaurant, so you'd think, although it probably didn't help that most things were in Chinese, and I am oriental in appearance. I ordered a soup and sweet and sour chicken, and was brought a complimentary pot of Chinese tea. I enjoyed both courses immensely, trying to demonstrate my prowess with chopsticks. However, I began to feel rather self-conscious, as the staff wandered up and down the aisle next to me - probably waiting for me to finish, or to give them an opportunity to top up my tea. As a result, I finished my meal with the spoon and fork.
By this point it was getting near to four o'clock, so I hastily left for the National Portrait Gallery. As it didn't close till nine, however, I reasoned that I would stay later, so I didn't need to rush. On arrival I bought myself a guide book, and started working my way through a self-guided tour. I found the Tudor period fascinating, and soon began looking simply for names of people I recognised. Once in a while I smiled to myself, as I discovered someone about whom I'd previously learnt something (from the V&A or Tate Britain). Soon however, I realised it was getting significantly darker outside, and maybe I could continue my experience another day, rather than overloading myself with information.
As I journeyed home, I thought back over the week. It had certainly been enjoyable, productive, and very different. Maybe there was something to be had from 'spontaneous planning' after all. Having been immersed in culture, I felt I'd grown from my experience. Who knows when I'll do something like this again, but in the meantime I've got a book to enjoy and photos to remind me.
Back to work.
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