Chapter Eighty One - Scotland 2019 (Part 2)

Day 6 – Wednesday, 5^th June 2019

            You find me writing this account shortly after eleven at night, with a very welcome solid roof above my head, and the imminent promise of a warm bed, minus aches and shivers (hopefully).
            First things first, though. I awoke this morning at eight, and seeing the others were both still asleep, I took the opportunity to enjoy a shower and freshen up – very welcome. Dan rose near ten, and as we passed some time before packing, I enjoyed a Daphne du Maurier short story (No Motive), less arduous to read than my Churchill book. As we took the tents down, I came to realise the folly of my previous misguided enthusiasm with the tent pegs – half of them were fiendishly difficult to uproot, and I was reluctant to try for fear of slicing another finger. My finger still throbbed under the plaster, and I prayed it would heal swiftly. As we left, we acknowledged the resident hooded crows, Claude and Claudette, and then made our way onwards, heading further north.
            The accommodation option was available for tonight or tomorrow, and we settled on the former. The consensus was clear between us, that a short respite from the challenges of ‘wild’ camping would be greatly appreciated!
            Lunch in the little village of Pockton (I had haggis, neeps and tatties) was followed after a few hours by our arrival at the Inverlael Farmhouse, where we would spend the night. The owner, Jane, was kind enough to fetch us some fresh eggs for breakfast. After a speedy shop in Ullapool (now familiar surrounds) we returned for a simple dinner (pasta) and evening entertainment (Poirot – Appointment With Death). There’s not much else to be said here, so I shall round off. Tomorrow would hold a slightly different start to our usual routine – a proper breakfast for a change!


Day 7 – Thursday, 6^th June 2019

            It was blissful waking up in a house today, with the prospect of a hot shower and a cooked breakfast – eggs, bacon, sausages, black pudding, beans, mushrooms and tomatoes. It took over half an hour to prepare the fry-ups, so I was told, but they were worth the wait, and immensely satisfying. With no takers for the leftovers, I shouldered the burden of finishing it all off.
            We left just after ten, and I sent Jane a thank you text (from various little things in the house, we felt her to be a woman with a simple Christian faith – would God bless her).
            Next, to Ullapool for a look round a shop or two before heading north.
            The art shop, specialising in gifts and cards, was showing some beautifully penned Bible verse artwork, which the lady at the counter, Lucy, said was crafted by the pastor’s wife, C.J. (Caroline). It was heart-warming to see the gospel truths on display, and I had to buy one as a gift. Lucy told us that she would pass on our kind words.
            On the road again, next stop Achin’s bookshop. Alas, the owners were still there, despite efforts to sell on the business. But, as last year, we were granted a warm welcome, and we bought a few items each to show our appreciation. I stayed for the soup of the day (tomato, carrot, sweet potato), and was very glad I did – warming against the slightly grey day outside. In the nicest possible way we said our farewells, hoping we wouldn’t see them again next year.
            Early afternoon turned to late afternoon and we pressed on upwards through Kylescue and Scourie, and on to familiar Clachtoll, where Split Rock looked down on us from afar. I was reminded of Dan’s previous camping at the top of the stack, similar to the promontory at our next stop, Oldshoremore beach (also familiar), on which Dan so wanted to pitch camp – so that, in the night, with water all around us with the incoming tide, we could look like masters of the camping scene, with 360° views to boot! Alas, the combination of imminent incoming tide, the need to return to the car to get our stuff, and confidence issues meant that Dan had to reluctantly let go of his dream.
            So instead we came to Shegra campsite – with sheep. Dan had camped here before – indeed his car furrows were still somewhat visible. I pitched the medium sized single tent (the ‘macpac’ was now my nemesis) and once all three of us were set, we sat ‘out’ talking and nibbling, myself draped in the door of my tent like a customer at the barber’s.
            In what seemed like no time at all the heavens opened and we retreated back under cover. It was quite something to have so much space – the last tent had been a tad claustrophobic. This one also had a mesh and window, allowing light to get in.
            Now, as I write, music is coming from Dan’s tent, and it has been a while since I heard from Josh – possibly asleep (the time is almost eleven, after all). Maybe a chance to read some more Daphne before turning in for the night – although I use the term loosely on account that it is still so light up here. Scotland, I guess.


Day 8 – Friday, 7^th June 2019

            Well, what a view – here we are, right up north in the wilds at Sandwood Bay. But I’ll come back to this later.
            The day started in a leisurely manner, at Shegra – there was even an early morning rainbow for me (5am). With such beautiful weather to savour, possibly the best on this holiday, we were in no particular rush to leave. It was while we were resting here that we had our experience with the pressurised stove – we had it in mind to boil water for tea, but Josh and I were struggling to read the instructions, and were slightly wary of lighting the stove (I didn’t much like the idea of setting fire to my arm in the process). Half an hour in, Dan was beginning to despair. It all worked out in the end, however, and Josh and I enjoyed a rewarding cup of tea, all the more satisfying for the effort put in.
            We departed the campsite after a late lunch, at about four, helping a Dutch couple to get their camper van out of a rut in the process. With our rucksacks loaded afresh with our camping gear and other supplies we set off on our seven mile hike across the rugged farmland, and up to Sandwood Bay, following the cliff path during the latter portion. It took us just over four hours, and we arrived at the beach just after nine. We were then treated to the most glorious sunset (which words cannot describe, nor my phone camera capture adequately), and we prayed, saying thanks to God for His gifts to us this evening and this past week.
            The tents pitched on the sand, the sound of the waves crashing against the cliffs and lapping up the beach, the howling wind, and the golden glow over everything – this was a perfect evening (still light at eleven), and such a blessing to round off our Scottish holiday. I was thankful to Dan for bringing us out here, and couldn’t have asked for better company – growing as we were, as we shared in each others’ lives for this week.
            Anyway, light is fading, and I must get my rest. Tomorrow we head back to the Lakes.


Day 9 – Saturday, 8^th June 2019

            Sun streamed into our tent as we awoke this morning – such a memorable view. There was sand everywhere, which was a slight frustration, but in light of the stunning location this wasn’t a significant issue – shaking out the tent made quick work of things. As I looked out over the sandy expanse, I could see we were the only ones there – rather surreal.
            Around ten we set off on our walk back to the car, a more direct route than we followed outwards, but still scenic (on a slightly lesser scale, due to the inland terrain). The walk was about four miles, and with a few stops along the way we arrived back at the car just before one – I felt rather fitter for it. We followed a path the whole way, this time, alongside a few lochans.
            Ullapool in the pouring rain, a brief stop on our way southward, was an opportunity to visit the chippie. Then onwards to Keswick.
            Stopping off at services to satisfy a burger craving, we discovered that our journey was taking far too long for us to reach the campsite at Castlerigg on time (it was now almost seven), so our options were either a final wild-camp or a bed and breakfast./
            With the prospect of rain and no affordable accommodation in the Keswick area we were resigned to a final night under canvas. I would have been fine with this, but Josh preferred proper accommodation, and truth be told, so did I. Dan widened his search and found us a hotel in nearby Annan, for a very reasonable price – albeit in a slightly shadier neighbourhood. Still, beds sorted, we drove to the place, about an hour away, and settled down in our rooms (‘the Atholl Suite’) to watch a lesser-known action  movie, The Criminal.
            Looking back over the day, we couldn’t have had a better start. I’m glad to have experienced a memorable and packed holiday, so different to my time in Cornwall only a few weeks ago.


Day 10 – Sunday, 9^th June 2019

            This morning we finally left Scotland, a bittersweet feeling – farewell to our Scottish environment, but anticipation of meeting with our extended church family in Keswick at ten thirty.
            The sermon was given by the pastor, James, on Acts 20 and caring for the flock. The talk looked at Paul’s selflessness and his caring for each individual (a calling, not a job).
            Unfortunately, time weighing heavy on us if we were to reach Kingston in time for evening church, we couldn’t stay around for tea and conversations afterwards. No sooner had we arrived, it felt we needed to leave.
            Just across the border, back in England, we stopped at Tebay services, now very familiar. Not having had breakfast, I took the chance to get some food, and also took time to browse for final gifts. Not wanting to leave Moses out, I bought a small pack of gourmet duck sausage dog treats. As I presented them at the check-out, the attendant looked at me and enquired “You do realise these are for dogs, right?”, to which I responded with a yes. “Mind you,” he went on, “they look pretty good, so if the dog doesn’t want them…”, he trailed off, leaving me laughing!
            There wasn’t much to say of the journey itself, but we arrived back in Kingston at about quarter to six, in plenty of time for the evening service. Reconnecting with friends helped make the final adjustment back to regular life, and Josh, Dan and I settled down to the meeting. Dean was preaching on Daniel 7.