Chapter Forty Eight – “Israel, Part Four: Of Resurrection and Wilderness”

Day 7 – Friday, 5^th September 2014 (‘He Is Risen!’)


We started our trip today with a visit to the site of the upper room, where Jesus would have had his last supper with his disciples. I was surprised to see the Islamic influence on the building, when it was converted into a mosque by Turkish invaders. It also was very different from how I imagined it – not the small, cosy upper room of a family house that I was expecting. As we stopped here to pray, we had some Bible readings, as we were reminded by the apostle John of Jesus washing his disciples’ feet. Particularly as our guide was looking to the future and his new role in ministry, this time caused us to stop and remember the example of our master, however grand our title might be.


From there we walked over to a memorial for king David (not his tomb). When we arrived, we were met with a room full of devout Jews, all deep in prayer. As they prayed, suddenly their mood changed, and they burst into spontaneous singing and dancing – it was such a joy to see these people making such a joyful noise to the Lord, and I thought that we Westerners could learn a lot from their example.


As we walked through the Jewish quarter of old Jerusalem, with the images of these devout Jews in my mind, I couldn’t help comparing the attitude to what I had heard about yesterday at the memorial site. Here was a place where Jews were free to be themselves and worship in their own way, free from prejudice or persecution. What a contrast!


We then moved onwards to the church where Mary slept – the Dormition Church. ‘Where in the Bible does it talk about Mary sleeping on Mount Zion?’  I asked. The answer – nowhere. This all stems from Roman Catholic tradition, which says that Mary did not die, but slept and was taken up to heaven (the Greek Orthodox believe she did die, but then immediately ascended to heaven). As there is no Biblical foundation for these claims, I found myself reasonably unmoved by this church, save for wishing that Mary had not been venerated so much. It is also believed that Mary intercedes for us when we pray, but when we can pray directly to God (‘When two or more are gathered on earth’) there is no need to pray to anyone else. It is a shame that so many people are deceived, and to a searching non-Christian, this perceived ‘idol worship’ is just an unnecessary stumbling block.


We visited the traditional (high church; Roman Catholic) site of Jesus’ crucifixion and burial – the church of the Holy Sepulchre. I was surprised to think that Calvary and the tomb were both situated inside the same church (obviously erected post-event). Something inside me didn’t feel that this was the actual location. We would be visiting the garden tomb later, so I could decide for myself then. After I had finished looking around the church, I stood for a while with Ian, and observed people approaching the ‘anointing stone’ where Jesus was supposedly laid after being taken down from the cross. To see the religiosity of it all made me sad, thinking that people were placing such hope in the stone itself – kissing it, touching it, lying on it. I just wanted to say ‘He is not there – he has risen!’ (As Ian said as we started off on today’s trip, ‘God doesn’t have holy sites, he has holy people.’)


After another wonderful lunch (we seem to find all the best places) we wandered through old Jerusalem for a while, admiring all the shops. Almost imperceptibly, we were out of the Jewish quarter, and found ourselves walking through the Islamic section, with vendors selling Q‘urans, and all the signs in Arabic. It reminded me of the Grand Bazaar in Turkey, and later, when everyone was crowding round us as we were trying to leave, I felt a little like Marcus Brody in Indiana Jones! As a group of us wandered through the Islamic quarter for the first time, we coincided with the Muslim men coming back from their prayers at the mosque – as we tried to pass them in the opposite direction, I thought it quite symbolic!


The final stop of the day was the visit to the Garden Tomb, with the proposed site of Calvary next to the famous East Jerusalem bus station (which I had heard so much about). First of all, we were taken to the site of Jesus’ crucifixion. I was surprised how small the ‘skull’ was, and also how the cross would have most likely have been situated next to the road, not on the top of a hill. A rethinking is needed, when I picture this in future. After this, we followed our garden guide down to the garden tomb – smaller than I had expected, but I loved the plaque inside the tomb, summing up my thoughts, ‘He is not here – for he is risen’. I realised that we had been left to decide the location of Jesus’ crucifixion and tomb for ourselves, being given the two strongest options. My heart certainly was drawn to this quiet garden. However, the exact location is not important (as Jesus is not buried anywhere now!), but rather we must remember who died for us, and why. The site merely aids our experience and understanding of these facts. It was so different from the atmosphere at the Holy Sepulchre.


Later, while we were still near the garden tomb, we shared the Lord’s supper. For me, this was possibly the most special and unique time receiving it, as we remembered that Jesus is alive, in the very place where he rose again! A very moving experience.  Where better to remember? As a final touch, we learnt that the little cups which we took the wine in, were gifts from our brothers and friends at the Bethlehem shop – how wonderful to be united in the same family.


To think that Jesus, the Son of God, died for me – he paid I price he did not owe, for a people who could not pay.


The evening was spent with some fun games – Rapidough and ‘pub quiz’ – devised by Ruth, to lighten the mood.


My main thoughts from the day are from the Garden Tomb. Jesus lives!


(Tomorrow, the Dead Sea – and a camel ride!)




Day 8 – Saturday, 6^th September 2014 (‘A Wilderness Experience’)


This morning we had an early start to get to Masada, boarding the coach at eight. As Julia got on we all sang happy birthday – how wonderful to celebrate a birthday in Israel among a group of new found friends. We travelled for just over an hour, beside the Dead  Sea, to the mountain of Masada, where Herod the Great built his fortress. As the Jewish revolt against the Roman empire came to a close in 73AD (starting in 66AD), Masada was the last stronghold. We travelled by cable car up to the top of Masada (very different from Canada), and got a wonderful view of the Dead Sea, and the surrounding desert, left untouched for two thousand years – you could still see the squares marking out the positions of the Roman camps. Amazing to think it’s survived for this long! When the Jews realised that their situation was hopeless, I couldn’t begin to imagine what they must have been feeling – that they preferred death over slavery, and so were prepared to kill their families and each other to prevent capture. What a horrid decision to have to make. It was the thought of that, which probably most impacted me about Masada.


We went on to Qumran (though I can’t be sure whether this was before or after lunch), to the site where the dead sea scrolls were discovered. As we sat and watched the short introductory film, I wondered at the sect of people who had written them. As they described themselves as ‘sons of the light’ keeping their teaching to themselves, I detected a sense of arrogance and self-righteousness (though they may not have seen themselves in that way). It was enlightening to think that Jesus may well have known these people, the Essenes, devout orthodox Jews; but he would have disagreed with them on the resurrection, as they didn’t believe in life after death. One good thing about the writings of this sect, however, is that with the discovery of the scrolls in 1947, it proves that God keeps His word – and it has remained unchanged since 68AD. I have always thought it was quite exciting to think of these scrolls lying hidden in a cave for so long, and again to hear that there may even be hidden treasures – for which, people are still looking.


Our next stop was at the Dead Sea for a spot of bathing. As I asked, ‘Is the low point of your day, the high point of your day?’ to which most people said yes. For me, it was a unique experience floating in the Dead Sea (something I always thought would be interesting to experience, to say I’d done it), but I hadn’t appreciated how much every little cut would sting, nor how much effort it would take to keep one’s head above the water (to prevent the water from getting in your eyes, or being swallowed). As such, it got rather uncomfortable after a while, and it was a challenge not to rub my eyes. A memorable experience, but probably not one I’d do again in a hurry! I’m sure some of the women would say different.


On the way back, we stopped off briefly by the roadside to see St George’s Monastery, hewn out of the desert rock. It looked like something out of Indiana Jones, and I was rather amazed at the precision of building. Certainly a very secret hideaway.


After dinner I joined David and Ann for a show in Jerusalem called ‘The Night Spectacular’ – a light show projected onto the walls of the ancient citadel, depicting the history of Jerusalem. I was astounded by the quality of the display, and how it used the angles and shapes of the walls for maximum effect. Words can’t do it justice, but although I was the only person to go with David and Ann, I was really pleased I went, and it was the perfect end to my day. (Again, as I sat next to the happy couple, I partly wished I had someone special to share that time with.)


Tomorrow morning is an early start, as I see a sunrise at half past five. Then church. It’s hard to believe this trip is almost over – but we have pushed so much in – a real credit to our guide for all his hard work, and to Ian and Ruth for organising it.


(PS. There was no camel ride – the Dead Sea experience was quite enough.)