Chapter Forty Seven – “Israel, Part Three: To Bethlehem and Yad Vashem“

Day 5 – Wednesday, 3^rd September 2014 (‘Plenty More in Store’)


This morning I headed down for breakfast as usual, and seeing Liz and Carol already sitting at a table in our ‘usual area’, I decided to be sociable and join them. As our group grew, and we enjoyed each other’s company, we learnt of our error (quite innocent, I should add) – we had sat in the wrong place! Feeling a bit like sheep following wayward goats, but duly forgiven, I made a mental note to check table markers in future. (Pat, on looking for the ‘Coffey’ table, named after our tour leaders, had been pointed to the coffee machine, where she had been waiting for a while in confusion.)


Our first stop this morning was the King’s Store giftshop in Bethlehem, described to us as the best place to buy gifts, as it was completely Christian-run. The majority of the gifts were hand-carved olive wood figures, some of which would take over six months to finish (first drying the wood, and then the sculpting) – it was moving to think that so much hard work would be spent on providing just one person with a beautiful gift. As such, it was hardly surprising that they were trying so hard to sell us things. Due to all the recent conflict, people had just been staying away from Bethlehem – we were the first customers for five weeks! Initially, I was quite wary about how much I was going to spend, so I got a few small gifts – mainly for Mum and Dad, but I did get a Jerusalem Cross for myself as a reminder. However, as I was casually looking at the nativity carvings, one of the shopkeepers started talking to me, describing the deals he was willing to do for me. My heart was turned; how could I refuse these people? The artistry was so special, and I figured my parents would appreciate the thought of a gift, so I settled on a medium-sized nativity scene. As I signed all the pieces (to ensure I received the exact same models), I realised my commitment to buy, and reassured myself that I was doing the right thing. How often would I get the chance to buy a nativity set in Bethlehem itself? I pushed my money worries to one side and filled in the details for the overseas dispatch (should arrive in a week), for which I was very grateful!


As I left the shop, about to board our coach, I was approached by street sellers trying to sell their comparatively basic goods. As the items were forced into my arms, I felt compelled to help them, but before I knew it the prices had increased and I had parted with a large proportion of my day’s money. I felt frustrated by my naivety, and I should really have refused, but now it meant that I was on my guard and more firm with other street touts. I was annoyed that they caught me off guard, and forced me to make a decision so suddenly – I really find it difficult to part with my money spontaneously, buy maybe that’s a cultural thing.


Our next stop was Bethlehem Bible College (previously the Helen Keller School for the Blind). This theology training school was finding it very hard to recruit new students as Christians are in the minority. Plus, the conflict hasn’t helped matters. The brother of the school’s founder, Alex, gave us a short talk on the ministry and mission of the school, and a brief history of the Israeli-Palestine conflict – now the situation makes sense to me for the first time, and I understand the reasons for the anger and violence we hear so much about in the media. He finished the talk by giving the Biblical perspective – it’s not about land, or one group of people being more in God’s favour than another.


From the college we moved on towards the Church of the Nativity, built on the site of the stable where Jesus was born. This was another site which had seriously suffered from a lack of visitors – to put it in perspective, normally there would be around one hundred and fifty buses a day visiting the site, today we were number five. Ian said it was the emptiest he had ever experienced it, which was a sad thought – he had been waiting for two hours last time, to visit the location of the manger. A bit of history – in the fourth century AD, Queen Helena built this church. It only survived the period of Persian destruction in 614AD because they saw the images of the magi bringing their gifts to Jesus.


As people saw where Jesus was born and then laid in the manger, some were moved, or deep in thought. For me, I felt no big emotions, although I obviously appreciated the fact that Jesus himself was actually there once. How I wish I was more emotional!


We stopped for lunch not too far away at ‘the grotto’ – for salads, and barbecued chicken and lamb, rather reminding me fondly of Turkish cuisine. A very satisfying meal.


After lunch, our final stop was the Shepherds’ Field, where the angel announced Jesus’ birth to the shepherds. The church built at the site was designed by Antonio Barluzzi (a famous name for crafting these spectacular buildings), modelled on a shepherds’ tent, in keeping with the surroundings. Money for building the dome was donated by Canada! Our guide reminded us of the site’s Old Testament significance as the site of the fields of Boaz, where Boaz met Ruth.


We headed back to the hotel, passing Mount Herodian on the way, although we didn’t stop.


After dinner (and a relaxing afternoon of napping, swimming and reading) we lightened the mood by having some fun. I was expecting a quiz, but instead we enjoyed a game of human bingo – however it proved impossible to complete because we couldn’t find anyone among us who disliked Marmite! To close, Liz and Carol treated us to a sketch (‘The Two Veronicas’).


As the night drew on, Helen decided to create a Facebook group for us as a forum for sharing our photos and keeping in touch. We struggled with viewing the page, but eventually got it working properly. As she uploaded photos, I finished my day’s journaling. We have a slightly later start tomorrow, visiting the Mount of Olives and the Holocaust Museum – which could be an eye-opener.




Day 6 – Thursday, 4^th September 2014 (‘A Thoughtful Day’)


It was a little bit of a luxury not having quite such an early start this morning. We met for breakfast at eight, and were ready to board the coach at nine.


The first stop on our tour this morning was the Mount of Olives. We were warned to be aware of pickpockets in this particular area, so we made sure to leave non-essentials in the coach, where they’d be safer. As we walked up the mount, I didn’t have any issues with thieves, but was immediately on my guard when street sellers were asking  us to buy things. The hard thing was to walk past the poor beggars, feigning deep conversation or pretending to ignore them – as much as I wanted to keep an eye on my money, I felt sorry for the poor people pleading for change. It felt unnatural to walk on by. Soon we reached a point on the road where we could see the whole of Jerusalem clearly – particularly the Golden Dome of the Rock. Here we stopped for a group photo, which we bought later off the photographer as a souvenir.


As I looked over Jerusalem from our position on the mount, it was interesting to see all the Jewish graves, and the stones placed on them as marks of respect (they don’t decay, unlike flowers) – it reminded me of the final scenes of Schindler’s List, somewhat appropriate considering this afternoon’s visit to the Holocaust Memorial Museum.


As we arrived at Dominus Flevit Church, the site where Jesus wept over Jerusalem, I began to get a real sense of the geography of the area. I hadn’t appreciated how spread out the various locations were during Jesus’ trial, and how far he would have had to have walked. We got a very clear view of the Golden Gate to Jerusalem, blocked up by crusaders in the tenth century AD. Outside the Dominus Flevit Church I was reminded again of what Jesus would have gone through with the crown of thorns rammed onto his head – there was a thorn tree right there, with brutal looking thorns of staggering length. To think that he went through all the pain for me.


From there we walked the Palm Sunday route that Jesus would have taken, and visited the Garden of Gethsemane. For me, the garden area was a lot smaller than I had imagined, although obviously there wouldn’t have been any fences in Jesus’ time, and olive trees would have stretched up the mountainside. I asked Ian about what the garden may have been like in Jesus’ time, and he explained that it may well have been a favourite spot for Jesus to come and pray on other occasions. I tried to imagine Jesus praying in the garden, seeing the sights that I was seeing.


Then on to Caiaphas’ house, and the dungeon (pit) where Jesus was kept overnight. Jesus spent eight hours in that pit – I hadn’t realised he would have been lowered through a hole in the roof – treated like a criminal, so unfairly, yet willingly. Michelle read Psalm 88 here, and it really painted the scene.


The Petri en Gallicanto church was also on this site (meaning ‘cock crows’), and we were shown to the courtyard where Peter denied Jesus. As Peter denied Jesus, the Bible says Jesus looked straight at him, and he fled and wept bitterly. However, as a result of Peter’s preaching, three thousand people came to know Jesus. This goes to show that when we mess up (even something as big as a denial), there is still hope. Encouragement for us all.


After lunch, we took a tour round the Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial Museum – unlike anything I’ve ever experienced before. I followed the story from 1933 to 1945, all the while wondering how man could be so cruel to his fellow man. It really became emotional as I heard the specific stories told by individuals, and I was shocked that people would have to face such evils. The Jewish/Christian question of salvation came to mind, but as I prayed for justice I entrusted my thoughts to God. He alone knows the hearts of the six million who died, and I know He is faithful and loving. I was encouraged to see Bible verses on display, and to read of those who managed to survive. I pray that this will never be repeated (although in some countries today a new monster is rising as Christians are facing extreme persecution). Lord, be close to all those who trust in You, and give them the strength to endure; but Lord, if it is Your will, please bring peace. Amen. Not a ‘highlight’ of our trip, but a well-needed reminder, so we can be more focused in our prayers.


Again, from four o’clock we had free time until dinner at seven. There was nothing else formal planned for the day, as Ian said we should have space to process the experiences from our day (particularly Yad Vashem). Certainly thought provoking.


Tomorrow we see the garden tomb and Gordon’s Calvary (I shall have to judge for myself where precisely the crucifixion took place).


Before I close for the day, I should add that at dinner, John said to me how he was enjoying having my company on this trip (as some others have also said). I’ve been slightly worried about not fitting in, being by far the youngest here, and not married. Wendy reassured me, saying that age was of no importance – after all, we will have eternity to enjoy, eventually!